Knowing how to decipher an ingredient list is difficult, but even if it doesn’t tell you exactly what percentage of each ingredient was used to create the formula, it is a far more reliable source of information than the product's description and claims.

Thus, let's take a close look first at the biological ingredient and then at the rest of the ingredients we use, mainly to transform a viscose fluid that regulates the orderly regeneration of damaged skin cells and protects the skin, into a pleasant gel with enhanced moisturizing properties.

The Main Biological Active

The main ingredient in all our products is the serum produced copiously by land snails of the species Helix Aspersa Müller whenever they are stressed. Stress makes them secrete a viscous fluid substance to protect, moisturize, repair and renew its skin. The same is also produced by the snail for many other biological functions, albeit with a different molecular composition or a diverse proportion of its molecular components. The complex molecules the serum contains have been thorougly studied and you can read all about them by following the links above under the title Helix Aspersa Muller Secretion.

How do we gather this precious substance? We use a method that is completely harmless for the snails, while it allows us to collect it PURE as it is copiously being produced by the snails, and undiluted in water to avoid the degrading of its enzymes and other molecules by hydrolysis.

Hydrolysis : A chemical reaction in which water reacts with a compound to produce other compounds; involves the splitting of a bond and the addition of the hydrogen cation and the hydroxide anion from the water and results in the formation of one or more new compounds that do not have the same properties of the original substance.

The snail secretions in BIOSKINEXFOL are NOT degraded, neither by interaction with chemicals nor by immediate hydrolysis.

Effective delivery to the target cells

We also embed the biological ingredient in a liposome, a microscopic, fluid-filled pouch whose walls are made of layers of phospholipids identical to the phospholipids that make up cell membranes.

Liposomes are used to deliver certain vaccines, enzymes, or drugs (e.g., insulin and some cancer drugs) to the body. Liposomes attach to cellular membranes and appear to fuse with them, releasing their contents into the cell. They are taken up by the cell, and the phospholipids are incorporated into the cell membrane while the ingredient (glycoprotein enzyme) trapped inside is released.

This is better understood if one compares the horny layer of the skin to a brick-and-mortar construction: The large cells of the epidermis are packed tightly together (briks), while the small spaces between them are filled with fats (lipids or mortar). The design is foolproof: The corneocytes keep foreign material out, and the lipids make sure water stays in.

Our delivery system binds the key ingredient to a lipid because those easily go around skin cells. Scientists call it traversing the intercellular matrix. It's easier to grasp if you imagine the product going through the mortar rather than the bricks. As the biological ingredient is absorbed by the lipid bi-layer in the epidermis, it is transported into the dermis itself. In this way the body acts as a traffic cop bringing the biological glycoproteins, that have been clinically proven to signal the fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin, to where the fibroblasts in turn produce smoother, firmer skin.

Licorice Extract

Licorice extract, from the roots of the plant Glycyrrhiza inflata Batalin, has inhibitory actions of testosterone 5-alpha-reductase, lipase and phospholipase A2, as well as androgen receptor antagonist which reduce sebum output. It also acts as an antimicrobial with proven action against P. acnes bacteria while also being a Super Oxide Dismutase antioxidant.

A New Dermatological Availability of the Flavonoid Fraction from Licorice Roots-Effect on Acne ISSN:0387-5253 Journal of Society Cosmetic Chemists Japan, VOL.37; NO.3; PAGE. 179-186(2003) Authors: Kambara Toshimitsu, Zhou Y, Kawashima Yoshihito, Kishida Naoko, Mizutani Kenji, Ikeda Takao, Kameyama Koichiro.

Abstract: In the course of our studies on the further application of licorice as a cosmetic ingredient, we studied a new dermatological availability in the licorice extract containing licochalcone-A as a main principle, Polyol Soluble Licorice Extract P-U, prepared from the roots of Glycyrrhiza inflata Batalin. As a result, this extract showed several activities such as inhibitory actions of testosterone 5 ALPHA-reductase, lipase and phospholipase A2, as well as androgen receptor antagonist, antimicrobial and SOD-like antioxidant actions, which relate to skin care, especially the suppression of acne formation and development. On basis of this evidence, a trial of Polyol Soluble Licorice Extract P-U with acne patients was carried out and the efficacy was demonstrated clinically.

Coleus oil (INCI: Coleus forskohlii oil)

Coleus oil is an essential oil extracted from the roots of Coleus forskohlii. Forskolin-rich extracts are commercially obtained from the roots which also yield a viscous, dark brown colored essential oil containing a range of aroma constituents that collectively impart a pleasing delicate aroma with a spicy note.

The newly discovered antimicrobial properties of the oil (of specific composition obtained using a proprietary extraction process), render it useful in topical preparations.

A specific composition of the oil prepared by a proprietary patented process, was found to be particularly
effective against Propionibacterium acnes, the microorganism implicated in acne. The process used is a carefully controlled solvent-free supercritical extraction technique. In addition, this composition was found to be active against other microbes known to be associated with skin infections and eruptions.

In laboratory studies, Coleus oil was found to more effectively inhibit the growth of skin pathogens including Propionbacterium acnes (associated with acne), Staphylococcus aureus (a bacterial strain found in infected wounds and skin eruptions including acne), Staphylococcus epidermidis a bacterial strain occurring in a variety of opportunistic bacterial skin infections and in acne, than the well known tea tree oil.

Willow Bark Extract from an alpine plant (Epilobium Fleischeri)

Willow bark extract is a natural source of complex salicylic acid which enhances cell renewal, opens clogged pores, is anti-inflammatory, regulates sebum output, reduces the oily feel of sebum from hyperactive sebum glands, and reduces skin flora on the surface of the skin implicated in the formation of acne, without the irritating effects of the synthetic source of salicylic acid.

Hyaluronic Acid - The Fountain of Youth

Hyaluronic acid as pure and concentrated as we use it, is a glycosaminoglycan present in the intercellular matrix of skin where it has a protective, structure stabilizing and shock-absorbing role.

Hyaluronic Acid is naturally found in the joints, the deeper layers of skin, the umbilical cord and in foetal skin.Medical grade Hyaluronic Acid is currently employed to reduce the incidence of post-operative adhesions, as a viscoelastic agent in intra-ocular surgery, also as a synovial replacement fluid; and is used to facilitate the healing and regeneration of surgical wounds.

The unique properties of Hyaluronic Acid make it the ideal moisturizer. Hyaluronic Acid plays an important role in tissue hydration, lubrication and cellular function, and is able to hold more water than any other natural substance. Its unmatched hydrating properties result in increased smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles.

Hyaluronic Acid has also shown excellent results in the reduction of dryness, itching and burning of the skin. It offers a perfect environment for the growth of new cells and healing following skin peeling.

Hyaluronic Acid is a major constituent of the extra-cellular matrix that surrounds rapidly dividing cells. It has been shown to be an integral component in the rapid and scar-less wound healing observed in foetal and neonatal organisms. In addition to this, the cellular actions precipitated by Hyaluronic Acid are integral to the seemingly magical biochemistry of foetal development.

It is well documented that foetal tissues contain large amounts of Hyaluronic Acid and that decreasing Hyaluronic Acid content correlates with aging and wrinkling. Therefore any practical attempts to prolong and recapture youth by revitalizing damaged tissue should include this molecule.

Olive oil derivatives: emulsifier Peg-4 Olivate, surfactant Sorbitan Olivate, and moisturizing Squalene.

Human skin secretes various lipophilic substances which play a substantial role in the protection of the skin. Chemically seen, these substances belong to the group of lipids, though they display differing structures: glycerides and free acids, cholesterol and its derivatives, esters with fatty acids and long chained alcohols, polar lipids of differing natural, saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbons. All in all a complicated mixture of complex processes. The advantages and complex ingredients of olive oil and their cosmetic application on the skin have been well documented and recorded.

• PEG-4 Olivate: is the polyethylene glycol ester of the fatty acid derived from Olive Oil. It is used as an emulsifying and skin-conditioning agent that increases the hydration capacity of emulsions and provides moisturizing benefits. Emulsifiers hold the oil and water components of an emulsion in a cream or lotion form and stop them separating.

• Sorbitan Olivate: Sorbitan fatty acid esters are mono-, di-, and triesters of fatty acids and sorbitol-derived hexitol anhydrides. They function as surfactants in cosmetic formulations. Safe for cosmetics use, according to industry safety panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, CIR).

Squalene is not only a natural moisturizer but is also a natural component of the skin and is considered a good emollient that has antioxidant and immune-stimulating properties. It helps dry skin look and feel better.

Sebum provides the normal lubricant of hairy and no-hairy skin. It keeps the skin supple and forms a protective bacterial and fungicidal coating on the skin and in the pilosebaceous apparatus. This fatty cover helps to keep moisture on the skin surface. Squalene occurs naturally in the human sebum, as can be seen from the following:

When human sebum is separated from epithelial lipids, its average composition is:

Squalane is a bland vehicle, with the unusual property to increase the rate, depth, and extent of penetration of topical agents such as the natural snail secretions in our cream.

Squalane is a natural emolient. It imparts to the skin a suppleness without an unpleasant greasy feel. It readily forms emulsions with fixed oils and lipophilic substances and does not oxidize nor turn rancid. When applied to washed or sun exposed skin and hair, squalane helps to restore the lost oils. It has long been known that coating the skin with oils offers considerable protection from sunburn because of a strong absorption band in the UVB radiation region (280–320 nm) that causes sunburns.

Squalene is also the name of a deep sea shark (centrophorus artomarginatus) that lives in waters 600 to 1000 m deep, without sunlight. How can they manage to survive under such harsh conditions, where pressure is consistently high and oxygen supply is very poor?. The secret lies in their livers, which account for 25% to 30% of their total body weight. In 1906 Dr. Tsujimoto of Japan discovered the shark liver extract, which was later identified as Squalene, with a chemical formula (C30H50).

Chemically Squalene is an unsaturated hydrocarbon, which can easily produce oxygen by combining with water. Squalene has been extensively researched and, as an oxygen carrier, found to play a key role in maintaining health. Dr Noguchi once said that "the cause of all illnesses is lack of oxygen".  A curious trait of the shark is its apparent immunity to cancer and disease. Once regarded as an enemy, a primitive and powerful hunter of the deep, the shark in now being heralded as a lifesaver. This unique fish which has remained structurally unchanged for 400 million years, may provide us with the natural resistance we need to fight many of our most common modern diseases from colds to cancer. Another source of Squalene is olive oil, which has been traditionally known for its health effects.

Glycerin - Humectant

Glycerin is a humectant. This means it has the ability to draw water right from the air bringing it closer to your skin and promotes the retention of water. It helps improve the skin's defenses by filling in the intercellular matrix and attracts just the right amount of water to maintain the skin's homeostasis whilst helping the other skin lipids perform better. Glycerin is a by-product of the saponification process of vegetable fatty acids.

Comment: a wide range of ingredients help skin retain water (moisture). Glycerin is one of the more typical and effective water-binding agents used in cosmetics. Some water-binding agents can mimic the skin's actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation; these include ceramide, lecithin, glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, and glycosaminoglycans. No single one of these is preferred over the other because even though they are all effective, none of them can permanently change the actual structure of skin.

Preservatives

The preservant we use to protect the gel from bacteria, yeasts and moulds, is a self sterilizing skin-friendly pH-stable system that combines a widely used, globally-accepted preservative (including Japan), phenoxyethanol, with a proven preservative-enhancer, ethylhexylglycerin, instead of controversial parabens.

Phenoxyethanol is an organic bactericide compound considered one of the least irritating cosmetic preservers with none of the controversial side effects of parabens. It provides a broad spectrum of anti-microbial activity against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, as well as yeasts and moulds. It is soluble and its activity is effective for our protein-based product and it does not react with the copper in the biological substance.

Ethylhexylglycerin reduces interfacial tension on the cell walls of micro-organisms, promoting their more rapid destruction and a broader spectrum activity.

Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin are synthetic ingredients derived from plants, and as many other synthetic sources they start as natural because everything comes from our environment; nothing is created via alchemy. We have yet to see any cosmetic that is "all" natural. Some synthetic ingredients are awesome for your skin, and regardless of the protestations of cosmetics companies to the contrary, every cosmetics product in the world contains its share of synthetic ingredients.

The Product

The result is a product that contains ingredients that are antimicrobial, protect, moisturize, repair and renew the skin plus ingredients that mimic the intercellular structure of skin and are essential for helping skin function normally. Intercellular substances are those ingredients that exist naturally in the skin and work to hold the skin cells together. A dry environment, sun damage, irritation, inflammation, and age can all greatly reduce the presence of these substances in skin. Combining intercellular substances and the biological active with moisturizers helps keep the layers of skin whole, resilient, and in good physical condition by providing the materials the skin needs to defend itself against pollution, hazards arising in the environment and events that trigger an inflammatory response from within our body.